When is Earth Day 2017?

When is Earth Day 2017? This observance always falls on April 22. On Earth Day, enjoy the tonic of fresh air, contact with the soil, and companionship with nature! Walk through the woods in search of emerging wildflowers and green moss. Go outside, no matter what the weather!

What is Earth Day?

Ever wondered how Earth Day started? This observance arose from an interest in gathering national support for environmental issues.
In 1970, San Francisco activist John McConnell and Wisconsin Senator Gaylord Nelson separately asked Americans to join in a grassroots demonstration. McConnell chose the spring equinox (March 21, 1970) and Nelson chose April 22.
Millions of people participated, and today Earth Day continues to be widely celebrated with events on both dates.
The most common practice of celebration is to plant new trees for Earth Day.

Earth Day Dates

Year	Earth Day
2017	Saturday, April 22
2018	Sunday, April 22
2019	Monday, April 22

http://www.almanac.com/content/when-earth-day-2017?trk_msg=T4CNDFR4T40KVE0ARRAQQ5AIK0&trk_contact=EEBLFVJ2I0VAQT9EM5JFVJAK9O&trk_sid=T9BQ42CQCQOJ5UETP8NVNHK4QG&utm_source=Listrak&utm_medium=Email&utm_term=When+is+Earth+Day+2017%3f+(title)&utm_campaign=Companion+Daily

When to Prune Trees and Shrubs

When trees and shrubs become overgrown, it’s time to break out the pruning shears. With this guide, learn when to prune trees and shrubs to get the most out of your plants, and why pruning is such an important part of garden maintenance.

Why prune trees and shrubs?

Plant health is the primary reason for pruning. Look for the 4 “Ds”—dead, dying, diseased, or damaged branches—these should be removed. Also look for spindly or weak growth, as well as any branches that are crossed or rubbing.

                                       http://www.almanac.com/blog/gardening/garden-journal/when-prune-trees-and-shrubs?trk_msg=I25BT2NSEPIKTFGRMEBUISCGBC&trk_contact=EEBLFVJ2I0VAQT9EM5JFVJAK9O&trk_sid=0G99TLENJ9GBVUCK3D81RESH1O&utm_source=Listrak&utm_medium=Email&utm_term=When+to+Prune+Trees+and+Shrubs+(title)&utm_campaign=Companion+Daily

How to Grow Your Own Salad Greens

Growing your own salad greens will put a world of fresh ingredients at your fingertips. Whether you are a gourmet salad lover who likes to experiment with interesting greens or just want some homegrown lettuce, your choices are only limited by the seeds you can find and the space you have.

Types of Salad Greens

We always think of spinach and lettuce as spring greens, but there are many more to choose from. Look to the east—Asian greens such as napa, tatsoi, pac choi, mibuna, santoh, and hon tsai tai are especially suited to growing in cool spring weather. If you have never tasted any of these greens, then you are in for a treat. Some are hot and spicy, while others are quite mild. They can be eaten raw or cooked and will add flavor to any salad or stir-fry.

http://www.almanac.com/blog/gardening/garden-journal/how-grow-your-own-salad-greens?trk_msg=I25BT2NSEPIKTFGRMEBUISCGBC&trk_contact=EEBLFVJ2I0VAQT9EM5JFVJAK9O&trk_sid=0G99TLENJ9GBVUCK3D81RESH1O&utm_source=Listrak&utm_medium=Email&utm_term=How+to+Grow+Your+Own+Salad+Greens+(title)&utm_campaign=Companion+Daily

Dahlias How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Dahlias

Dahlias

How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Dahlias

Dahlias are colorful spiky flowers which generally bloom from midsummer to first frost, when many other plants are past their best.
In cold climates of North America, dahlias are known as tuberous-rooted tender perennials, grown from small brown biennial tubers planted in the spring.
Dahlias come in a rainbow of colors and even range in size, from the giant 10-inch “dinnerplate” blooms to the 2-inch lollipop-style pompons. Most varieties grow 4 to 5 feet tall.
Though not well suited to extremely hot and humid climates, such as much of Texas and Florida, dahlias brighten up any sunny garden with a growing season that’s at least 120 days long. Dahlias thrive in the cool, moist climates of the Pacific Coast, where blooms may be an inch larger and deeper.

Planting

• Don’t be in a hurry to plant; dahlias will struggle in cold soil. Ground temperature should reach 60°F. Wait until all danger of spring frost is past before planting. (We plant them a little after the tomato plants go in.)
• Select a planting site with full sun. Dahlias grow more blooms with 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight. They love the morning sunlight best. Choose a location with a bit of protection from the wind.
• Dahlias thrive in rich, well-drained soil. PH level of your soil should be 6.5-7.0, slightly acidic.If you have a heavier soil, add in sand, peat moss or bagged steer manure to lighten and loosen the soil texture for better drainage. 
• Bedding dahlias can be planted 9 to 12 inches apart. The smaller flowering types, which are usually about three feet tall, should be spaced two feet apart. The taller, larger-flowered dahlias should be spaced three feet apart.
• The planting hole should be slightly larger than the root ball of the plant and incorporate some compost or sphagnum peat moss into the soil. It also helps to mix a handful of bonemeal into the planting hole. Otherwise, do not fertilize at planting.
• Avoid dahlia tubers that appear wrinkled or rotten. A little bit of green growth is a good sign. Don’t break or cut individual dahlia tubers as you would potatoes.
• Plant them whole, with the growing points, or “eyes,” facing up, about 6 to 8 inches deep. The crowns should be just above soil level.
• Tall, large-flowered cultivars will require support. Place stakes (five to six feet tall) around plants at planting time and tie stems to them as the plants grow.
• Large dahlias and those grown solely for cut flowers are best grown in a dedicated plot in rows on their own, free from competition from other plants. Dahlias of medium to low height mix well with other summer flowers. If you only have a vegetable garden, it’s the perfect place to put a row of dahlias for cutting (and something to look at while you’re weeding!).
• Dahlias start blooming about 8 weeks after planting, starting in mid-July.
• Some gardeners start tubers indoors a month ahead to get a jump on the season.
• Do not water the tubers right after planting; this encourages rot. Wait until the sprouts have appeared above the soil to water.
• Do not cover the dahlias with mulch or bark or sprouting is more challenging; apply slug and snail bait to avoid pests.

Care

• There’s no need to water the soil until the dahlia plants appear; in fact, overwatering can cause tubers to rot. After dahlias are established, provide a deep watering 2 to 3 times a week for at least 30 minutes with a sprinkler (and more in dry, hot climates).
• Dahlias benefit from a low-nitrogen liquid fertilizer (similar to what you would use for vegetables) such as a 5-10-10 or 10-20-20. Fertilize after sprouting and then every 3 to 4 weeks from mid-summer until early Autumn. Do NOT overfertilize, especially with nitrogen, or you risk small/no blooms, weak tubers, or rot.
• Like many large-flower hybrid plants, the big dahlias may need extra attention before or after rain, when open blooms tend to fill up with water or take a beating from the wind.
• Bedding dahlias need no staking or disbudding; simply pinch out the growing point to encourage bushiness, and deadhead as the flowers fade. Pinch the center shoot just above the third set of leaves.
• For the taller dahlias, insert stakes at planting time. Moderately pinch, disbranch, and disbud, and deadhead to produce a showy display for 3 months or more.
• Dahlia foliage blackens with the first frost.
• Dahlias are hearty to zone 8 and can be cut back and left in the ground to overwinter; cover with a deep, dry mulch. Elsewhere, the tuberous roots should be lifted and stored during the winter. (Some readers find, however, that dahlias will survive in zone 7 if the winter isn’t too severe.)

Pests/Diseases

• Slugs and snails: Bait 2 weeks after planting and continue to bait throughout the season.
• Mites: To avoid spider mites, spray beginning in late July and continue to spray through September. Speak to your garden center about recommended sprays for your area.
• Earwigs and Cucumber Beetle: They can eat the petals though they do not hurt the plant itself.
• Aphids
• Deer: Find a list of deer-resistant plants to grow around your dahlias.
• Powdery Mildew: This commonly shows up in the fall. You can preventatively spray before this issue arises from late July to August.

Harvest/Storage

Taking Up the Tubers

In cold regions, if you wish to save your plants, you have to dig up the tubers in early fall and store them over the winter.
Dahlias may be hardy to USDA Zone 8. There they can be left in the ground to overwinter. In areas that get frost, including most parts of Zone 5, a killing frost—or a touch of frost—can help the bulb to shut down/go dormant.

• Foliage should be cut back to 2 to 4 inches above ground and lifting and separating should be completed.
• Gently shake the soil off the tubers.
• Cut rotten tubers off the clump and leave upside down to dry naturally.
• Pack in a loose, fluffy material (vermiculite, dry sand, Styrofoam peanuts).
• Store in a well-ventilated, frost-free place—40 to 45 degrees F is ideal, 35 to 50 degrees F is acceptable.
• Take out the tubers in the spring, separate them from the parent clump, and begin again.
• If this all seems like too much bother or you do not have the right storage place, skip digging and storing, and just start over by buying new tubers in the spring.

Recommended Varieties

Picking a favorite dahlia is like going through a button box. There is a great spectrum of color, size, and shape. Here are some popular choices:

• ‘Bishop of Llandaff’: small, scarlet, intense flowers with handsome, dark-burgundy foliage
• ‘Miss Rose Fletcher’: an elegant, spiky, pink cactus plant with 6-inch globes of long, quilled, shell-pink petals
• ‘Bonne Esperance’, aka ‘Good Hope’: a foot-tall dwarf that bears 1-½-inch, rosy-pink daisies all summer that are reminiscent of Victoria bedding dahlias (though it debuted in 1948)
• ‘Kidd’s Climax’: the ultimate in irrational beauty with 10-inch “dinnerplate” flowers with hundreds of pink pentals suffused with gold
• ‘Jersey’s Beauty’: a 7-foot tall pink plant with hand-size flowers that brings great energy to the fall garden.

Wit & Wisdom

The dahlia was named for Anders Dahl (botanist), born on March 17, 1751.
The Dahlia you brought to our isle
Your praises forever shall speak
‘Mid gardens as sweet as your smile
And colour as bright as your cheek.
–Lord Holland (1773–1840)

Lettuce Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Lettuce

Lettuce

Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Lettuce

Garden lettuce is far superior, in both taste and vitamin A content, to supermarket brands. See how to grow this cool-season crop.
Lettuce grows well in the spring and in the fall in most regions. Lettuce seedlings will even tolerate a light frost. Temperatures between 45 F and 65 F are ideal.
Because lettuce grows quickly, the best approach is to plant a small amount at a time, staggering your plantings. Find more tips for planting delicious lettuce here.

Planting

Before you plant your lettuce seeds, make sure the soil is prepared. It should be loose and drain well so it’s moist without staying soggy. To keep the soil fertile, feed it with organic matter about one week before you seed or transplant. Since the seed is so small, a well-tilled seedbed is essential. Large clods will reduce germination.

• Direct sowing is recommended as soon as the ground can be worked. Plant seeds ½ inch deep. Snow won’t hurt them, but a desiccating cold wind will.
• If you want an earlier crop, however, you may start seeds indoors 4 to 6 weeks before last spring frost date for an earlier crop. Harden off seedlings for about one week, and transplant outside between 2 weeks before and 2 weeks after last spring frost.
• Seed may be sown in single rows or broadcast for wide row planting. When broadcasting, you’ll need to “thin” for the proper spacing.
  • Leaf lettuce: Plant 4 inches apart.
  • Cos and loose-headed types: Plant 8 inches apart.
  • Firm-headed types: Plant 16 inches apart.
• Your rows of plants should be 12 to 15 inches across.
• Cover the seeds with ¼ to ½ inch of soil.
• Water thoroughly at time of transplant.
• Consider planting rows of chives or garlic between your lettuce to control aphids. They act as “barrier plants” for the lettuce.
• If you’d like to grow your lettuce indoors, check out this blog.
• It’s possible to plant lettuce in the fall or winter. Find tips for a second crop of lettuce here.

Care

• You should be able to sow additional seeds every two weeks for a continuous harvest throughout the growing season.
• Fertilize 3 weeks after transplanting. Lettuce prefers soil that is high in humus, with plenty of compost and a steady supply of nitrogen to keep if growing fast. Use organic alfalfa meal or a slow-release fertilizer.
• To plant a fall crop, create cool soil in August by moistening the ground and covering it with a bale of straw. A week later, the soil under the bale will be about 10 degrees F (6 degrees C) cooler than the rest of the garden. Sow a three foot row of lettuce seeds every couple of weeks—just rotate the straw bale around the garden.
• Make sure soil remains moist but is well-drained.
• An organic mulch will help conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and keep soil temperatures cool throughout the warmer months.
• Lettuce will tell you when it needs water. Just look at it. If the leaves are wilting, sprinkle them anytime—even in the heat of the day—to cool them off and slow down the transpiration rate.
• Weed by hand if necessary, but be careful of plant roots: They are shallow.
•  Planning your garden so that lettuce will be in the shade of taller plants, such as tomatoes or sweet corn, in the heat of the summer, may reduce bolting.

Pests/Diseases

• Aphids
• Earwigs
• Cutworms
• White Mold
• Woodchucks
• Rabbits

Harvest/Storage

• Lettuce should be harvested when full size, but just before maturity. You want it young and tender.
• Before maturity, you can harvest leaf lettuce by simply removing outer leaves so that the center leaves can continue to grow. Butterhead or romaine types can be harvested by removing the outer leaves, digging up the whole plant or cutting the plant about an inch above the soil surface. A second harvest is often possible this way. Crisphead lettuce is picked when the center is firm.
• Mature lettuce gets bitter and woody and it will go bad quickly, so check your garden everyday.
• As time passes, you will want to cut the whole plant from the ground.
• It’s best to harvest in the morning before leaves have been exposed to sun.
• Keep lettuce in the refrigerator for up to 10 days in a loose plastic bag.

Recommended Varieties

• Crisphead: ‘King Crown’, ‘Mission’
• Cos (Romaine): ‘Wallop’, ‘Paris White Cos’
• Loose Heads: ‘Burpee Bibb’
• Red Leaf: ‘Red Sail’ (Not recommended for hot weather, their red pigment absorbs more heat.
• Check out this video to find varieties of lettuce and salad greens that you can grow in containers for an urban garden.

Wit & Wisdom

• Did you know: Lettuce is a member of the sunflower family.
• Lettuce wilted? Put the leaves in a bowl of cold water with ice cubes and soak for about 15 minutes.
• Eating lettuce for dinner can be calming and help to reduce stress.
• Embrace your leafy greens! Learn more about the health benefits of going green!

Recipes

• Lettuce Soup
• Peas Steamed in Lettuce
• Sunshine Salad

Cooking Notes

Lettuce makes the perfect base for any number of salads. Try these eight great salad recipes for your recent harvest! http://www.almanac.com/plant/lettuce?trk_msg=HT237L7KITMKN4U7NVMGHIKNOO&trk_contact=EEBLFVJ2I0VAQT9EM5JFVJAK9O&trk_sid=MER6QER1R24O49PCCFNCH1BSRO&utm_source=Listrak&utm_medium=Email&utm_term=Lettuce+(title)&utm_campaign=Companion+Daily

Seed Starting and Planting Date Calculator for Ashland, OH

Here are seed-starting dates for your first spring planting. These dates are based on historical frost dates, as reported by your nearest government weather stations.
Historical data is useful way to get a sense of "typical" frost dates to give you a general sense of timing. However, it is not a replacement for good judgement. Obviously, you need to be aware of your weather this coming season. Other factors that can also influence your planting dates include soil temperature, altitude and slope of land, nearby waters, and day length. Also, keep records of your garden's conditions each year to plan more accurately.
On chart below, please note:

• Seeds for plants with a long growing season should be started indoors during the periods shown below.
• Seeds for plants sown in the ground should be planted during the periods shown.
• When no dates appear in the chart, that starting method is not recommended for the particular vegetable.

  ASHLAND 2 SW CLIMATE STATION

  50% probability of frost free after May 4 (at ASHLAND 2 SW, OH climate station).
  

  Crop	Start Seeds Indoors	Moon-favorable Dates	Set Out Plants/ Start Seeds Outdoors	Moon-favorable Dates
  Beans			May 11-Jun 1	May 25-Jun 1
  Beets			Apr 20-May 11	Apr 20-25, May 11
  Broccoli	Mar 23-Apr 6	Mar 27-Apr 6	Apr 13-May 4	Apr 26-May 4
  Brussels sprouts	Mar 23-Apr 6	Mar 27-Apr 6	Apr 6-27	Apr 6-11, Apr 26-27
  Cabbage	Mar 8-23	Mar 8-23	Apr 6-20	Apr 6-11
  Carrots			Mar 30-Apr 13	Apr 12-13
  Cauliflower	Mar 23-Apr 6	Mar 27-Apr 6	Apr 6-20	Apr 6-11
  Celery	Feb 22-Mar 8	Feb 26-Mar 8	May 11-25	May 25
  Collards	Mar 23-Apr 6	Mar 27-Apr 6	Apr 6-27	Apr 6-11, Apr 26-27
  Corn			May 4-18	May 4-10
  Cucumbers	Apr 6-13	Apr 6-11	May 18-Jun 8	May 25-Jun 8
  Eggplant	Feb 22-Mar 8	Feb 26-Mar 8	May 18-Jun 8	May 25-Jun 8
  Kale	Mar 23-Apr 6	Mar 27-Apr 6	Apr 6-27	Apr 6-11, Apr 26-27
  Kohlrabi			Apr 6-27	Apr 6-11, Apr 26-27
  Leeks	Feb 22-Mar 8	Feb 26-Mar 8	Apr 6-27	Apr 6-11, Apr 26-27
  Lettuce	Mar 23-Apr 6	Mar 27-Apr 6	Apr 20-May 18	Apr 26-May 10
  Melons	Apr 6-13	Apr 6-11	May 18-Jun 8	May 25-Jun 8
  Okra			May 18-Jun 1	May 25-Jun 1
  Onion sets			Apr 6-27	Apr 12-25
  Parsnips			Apr 13-May 4	Apr 13-25
  Peas			Mar 23-Apr 13	Mar 27-Apr 11
  Peppers	Feb 22-Mar 8	Feb 26-Mar 8	May 18-Jun 8	May 25-Jun 8
  Potato tubers			Apr 27-May 18	May 11-18
  Pumpkins	Apr 6-20	Apr 6-11	May 18-Jun 8	May 25-Jun 8
  Radishes			Mar 8-30	Mar 24-26
  Spinach			Mar 23-Apr 13	Mar 27-Apr 11
  Squash	Apr 6-20	Apr 6-11	May 18-Jun 8	May 25-Jun 8
  Sweet Potatoes	Apr 6-13	Apr 12-13	May 18-Jun 8	May 18-24
  Swiss Chard	Mar 23-Apr 6	Mar 27-Apr 6	Apr 13-20
  Tomatoes	Mar 8-23	Mar 8-23	May 11-Jun 1	May 25-Jun 1
  Turnips			Apr 6-27	Apr 12-25
  Watermelon	Apr 6-13	Apr 6-11	May 18-Jun 8	May 25-Jun 8

Is There a Greenhouse in Your Future?

This is the time of year when we think, “If we only had a greenhouse, we could grow…” (fill in the blank). We plantaholics whip ourselves into a frenzy and soon have seedlings perched in every window and on every flat surface in the house, so greenhouse envy is at its highest.
If you are planning a greenhouse project, here are ten tips to consider when choosing the perfect greenhouse structure for you:

http://www.almanac.com/blog/gardening/garden-journal/there-greenhouse-your-future?trk_msg=G06RQUQN6VGKPEE22783OVAJJ4&trk_contact=EEBLFVJ2I0VAQT9EM5JFVJAK9O&trk_sid=3C3VLMS95SNVBQPOBNBBJ1RUP0&utm_source=Listrak&utm_medium=Email&utm_term=Is+There+a+Greenhouse+in+Your+Future%3f++(title)&utm_campaign=Companion+Daily