Thyme

Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Thyme

Thyme is a small perennial shrub with lots of branches and light purple to pink flowers. Here’s how to grow thyme in your own garden.
Thyme is aromatic and has a pleasant, pungent, clover flavor. There are over fifty varieties used in cooking and gardening. English thyme is used most often in cooking.

Planting

• It’s hard to grow thyme from seeds because of slow, uneven germination. It’s easier to buy the plants or take some cuttings from a friend.
• For a head start, plant the seeds/cuttings indoors 6 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost. (See your local frost dates.)
• Plant the seeds/cuttings 2 to 3 weeks before the last spring frost in well-drained soil about 9 inches apart. For best growth, the soil should be about 70ºF.
• The plants should grow 6 to 12 inches in height.
• In the garden, plant thyme near cabbage or tomatoes.

Care

• Water normally and remember to trim the plants when they get leggy.
• Prune the plants back in the spring and summer to contain the growth. You can take some cuttings and plant them indoors in pots, too.
• If you have cold winters, remember to lightly mulch around the plants after the ground freezes.

Pests/Diseases

• Gray mold
• Root rot

Harvest/Storage

• Throughout the summer, leaves and sprigs can be harvested at any time.
• To dry the sprigs, hang them in a dark, well-ventilated, warm area. You can also just dry the leaves by placing them on a tray. Once dried, store them in an airtight container.
• Freezing is another method of storage.

Recommended Varieties

• Lemon thyme, for a hint of lemon
• Caraway thyme, for a nice fragrance of caraway and thyme

Wit & Wisdom

Burning thyme can help get rid of insects in your house.
Learn more about herb folklore.

Recipes

• Lemon Thyme Bread with Lemon Glaze
• Chicken Breast With Lemon and Thyme

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Basil

Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Basil

Basil is a warm-weather, fragrant herb that tastes great in Italian dishes—and let’s not forget homemade pesto! When growing basil, be sure to keep harvesting the leaves to keep the plant going strong.
The most common type of basil is sweet basil; other types include purple basil (less sweet than common basil), Lemon basil (lemon flavor), and Thai basil (licorice flavor).
Basil is easy to grow but it only grows outdoors in the summer—and only once the soil has warmed up nicely—so plan accordingly.
If you’re planning on making pesto, grow several plants. Otherwise one or two basil plants yields plenty.

Planting

• To get a head start, start the seeds indoors 6 weeks before the last spring frost. (See local frost dates.)
• To plant outside, wait until the soil is at least 50 degrees—preferably around 70ºF for best growth. Don’t rush basil. Without heat, the plant won’t grow.
• Basil needs to be in a location that gets 6 to 8 hours of full Sun daily; soil should be moist and well-drained.
• Plant seeds/seedlings about ¼-inch deep and 10 to 12 inches apart. They should grow to about 12 to 24 inches in height. For smaller plants, plant farther apart (about 16 to 24 inches).
• During the dry periods in summer, water the plants freely.
• Remember to pinch out the flower heads as soon as they appear to make sure that the leaves will continue growing.
• If you’re planning on cooking with these plants, plant in clean soil (don’t use fertilizers that leave harmful residues) and grow them away from driveways and busy streets so that exhaust won’t settle on the plants.
• Tomatoes make great neighbors for basil plants in the garden.

Care

• Make sure that the soil is moist. Basil plants like moisture. If you live in a hot area, use mulch around the basil plants (the mulch will help keep the soil moist).
• After the seedlings have their first six leaves, prune to above the second set.
• Every time a branch has six to eight leaves, repeat pruning the branches back to their first set of leaves.
• After 6 weeks, pinch off the center shoot to prevent early flowering. If flowers do grow, just cut them off.
• If the weather is going to be cold, be sure to harvest your basil beforehand, as the cold weather will destroy your plants.

Pests/Diseases

• Aphids
• Variety of bacterial and fungal leaf, stem, and root diseases

Harvest/Storage

• Start picking the leaves of basil as soon as they are 6 to 8 inches tall.
• Once temperatures hit 80 degrees, basil will really start leafing out.
• Make sure to pick the leaves regularly to encourage growth throughout the summer.
• Even if you don’t need to leaves, pick them to keep the plant going. Freeze the leaves.
• If you pick regularly, twelve basil plants will produce 4 to 6 cups of leaves per week.
• The best method for storing basil is freezing. Freezing will prevent the plant from losing any of its flavor. To quick-freeze basil, dry whole sprigs of basil and package them in airtight plastic bags.
• Another storage method is drying the basil (although some of the flavor will be lost). Pinch off the leaves at the stem and place them in a well-ventilated and shady area. After 3 to 4 days, if the plants are not completely dry, place them in the oven on the lowest heat setting with the door slightly open. Remember to turn the leaves (for equal drying) and check them frequently. See more about drying basil, tomatoes, and paprika.

Recommended Varieties

• Cinnamon basil, to add a hint of cinnamon to a dish
• Purple basil, to add some nice color to your garden (when steeped in white vinegar, it creates a beautiful color)
• Thai basil, to add a sweet licorice flavor to a dish.

See our post about basil varieties in the garden.

Wit & Wisdom

Where salt is good, so is basil. –Italian saying
Basil has a lovely fragrance. Pick from the stems and put in water for a few days as you would cut flowers!
For other greens to use in your cuisine, see the Leafy Greens: Health Benefits page.

Recipes

• Tomato, Basil, and Mozzarella Sandwiches
• Fresh Tomato and Basil Quiche
• Basil Tart
• Roasted Red Pepper, Mozzarella, and Basil-Stuffed Chicken
• Green Bean and Basil Soup

How to Water Vegetables for Better Taste

Improve the flavor of tomatoes and other vegetables just by the way you water your garden. Here’s how.

How to Water for Better-Tasting Crops

Tweaking your watering can have a dramatic impact on the flavor of your crops. Soils rich in added organic matter are naturally more moisture-retentive. This minimizes the amount of added water the crops need, and keeps those all-important sugars from being diluted too much.

Watering Fruiting Crops

Peaches, cherries and other tree fruits, plus fruiting vegetables such as tomatoes and peppers have better flavor when not over-watered. Reducing irrigation just one week before fruits are picked can help enhance the flavor of these crops.
Container-grown fruits such as blueberries or strawberries can also benefit from this approach to watering.

Improving the Flavor of Tomatoes

Keep tomato plants well watered while they establish. Water heavily two to three times at week, depending on your weather, climate and soil conditions. Then, once you start to see fruits developing, reduce the volume of water you give your plants at each watering to a minimum. Don’t go so far as to allow plants to wilt though! Yields may be a little smaller, but the flavor is more intense.

Watering Root Crops

Carrots, beets and other root crops have improved taste levels in drier soils. As their roots reach deep into the soil looking for moisture, they will also source minerals that contribute to a better flavor. Water root crops regularly for the first three to four weeks after sowing or planting, then taper irrigation to a minimum.

Leafy Salads and Greens 

Treating leafy crops benefit to plenty of water helps to dilute very spicy or bitter tastes. You can tame the spicy flavor of leaves such as arugula by keeping them well-watered.
Keep other leafy salads and greens moist to encourage lots of succulent, leafy growth.

https://www.almanac.com/video/how-water-vegetables-better-taste?trk_msg=8QDO41LQ98NKJAOM44QE0D4PTK&trk_contact=EEBLFVJ2I0VAQT9EM5JFVJAK9O&trk_sid=0GPSP63TH2EBCPP2RCMI5336NK&utm_source=Listrak&utm_medium=Email&utm_term=How+to+Water+Vegetables+for+Better+Taste+(title)&utm_campaign=Companion+Daily

Mulch to Control Weeds and Save Water

Mulch to Control Weeds and Save Water https://www.almanac.com/video/mulch-control-weeds-and-save-water?trk_msg=QG2IKD9QD8P4BE0LBCS3NPNJNO&trk_contact=EEBLFVJ2I0VAQT9EM5JFVJAK9O&trk_sid=IM8ITMHPCQU7RIF5JPETMFC2R8&utm_source=Listrak&utm_medium=Email&utm_term=Mulch+to+Control+Weeds+and+Save+Water+(title)&utm_campaign=Companion+Daily

In this video, learn how to use mulch to kill weeds and keep plants moist.

Use Mulch to Reduce Weeds, Save Water & Feed Your Plants

Crops need three things to grow strongly: weeding, watering, and feeding. An organic mulch will help you to do all of the above, with the following advantages:

• Reduced weeding. Mulches prevent light from reaching the soil, reducing weed growth and saving you lots of work!
• Protected soil. Severe weather can result in compaction and erosion of bare soil.
• Moisture retention. Mulching moist soil helps prevent evaporation and keeps soil moist for longer.
• Improved soil. Organic mulches improve soil structure, and they contain nutrients which feed the soil as they rot down.
• Natural pest control. Mulches provide habitat for beneficial pest predators such as ground beetles.

Mulching is a great way to use up grass clippings and shredded prunings. They can be used on the vegetable garden or around fruit trees and bushes. Shredded prunings and shredded bark also make excellent path surfaces between beds.
Straw or hay can be used to help keep fruits such strawberries, zucchinis and bush tomatoes dry and up off the ground. This protects the developing fruits from rotting.

Mulching Techniques

• Don’t lay mulches in spring when it’s cool and damp, as this can attract slugs. Remove any perennial weeds before laying a mulch. In dry weather give the ground a really thorough watering before mulching.
• Most mulches need to be spread a minimum of one to two inches deep. Some, like straw, can be laid much thicker than this, while grass clippings should be applied in thin layers at regular intervals to prevent them becoming smelly and slimy.
• It’s a great idea to mulch bare soil to protect it from harsh weather and to keep weeds in check. Lay sheets of thick cardboard so that the sheets overlap by at least a foot, and weigh them down using bricks or stones. This is a good way to protect soil over winter. In fall or early winter, spread out a layer of organic matter such as compost or well-rotted manure to improve the soil before laying the cardboard on top.
• Paper mulches suppress weeds and also help to retain moisture. Cut a cross shape in the paper, dig a hole and simply plant through the paper. Water through the slot.

Celery

Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Celery

Celery is a long-season crop that can be tricky to grow—some might say, the trickiest of all. Here’s how to grow celery in your garden.
Celery likes fertile soil, cool temperatures, and constant moisture. It will not tolerate heat and can be hard to transplant. Summer crops in the north and winter crops in the south make celery a year-round producer. All the hard work is worth it when you finally get to harvest crunchy, green stalks!

Planting

• Celery seeds should always be started indoors for the best success rate, 8 to 10 weeks before the average last frost date for your area. (See local frost dates.)
• For summer gardeners, a late summer direct sowing is possible. Be sure that temps will stay between 55 and 70ºF throughout the growing period.
• The National Gardening Association recommends soaking seeds in warm water overnight prior to planting, to reduce germination time.
• Work organic fertilizer or compost into the soil prior to planting. (Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)
• Harden off seedlings before transplanting by reducing water slightly, and keeping them outdoors for a couple hours a day.
• Transplant seedlings 10 to 12 inches apart, direct sow seeds ¼ inch deep. These will need to be thinned to 12 inches apart when they reach about six inches high.
• Mulch and water directly after planting.

Care

• Celery is a heavy feeder and requires lots of water. Make sure to provide plenty of water during the entire growing season, especially during hot, dry weather.
• If celery does not get enough water, the stalks will be dry and small.
• Add plenty of compost and mulch around the plants to retain moisture.
• Fertilize regularly. Add mulch as needed, to help retain soil moisture and add nutrients.
• Tie growing celery stalks together to keep them from sprawling.

  https://www.almanac.com/plant/celery?trk_msg=QG2IKD9QD8P4BE0LBCS3NPNJNO&trk_contact=EEBLFVJ2I0VAQT9EM5JFVJAK9O&trk_sid=IM8ITMHPCQU7RIF5JPETMFC2R8&utm_source=Listrak&utm_medium=Email&utm_term=Celery+(read+more)&utm_campaign=Companion+Daily

Best Edible Flowers for Growing and Eating

  Add flowers to your food! Many gardeners forget that flowers not only are beautiful, but also can be raised to eat. Here are the best edible flowers based on firsthand experience in the garden and kitchen.
I especially love adding small edible flowers to salads, which can be made even more attractive and special with their color and subtle taste. Flowers can also be added to soups, cassroles, and other dishes.

Best Edible Flowershttps://www.almanac.com/blog/gardening/celeste-garden/best-edible-flowers-growing-and-eating?trk_msg=QG2IKD9QD8P4BE0LBCS3NPNJNO&trk_contact=EEBLFVJ2I0VAQT9EM5JFVJAK9O&trk_sid=IM8ITMHPCQU7RIF5JPETMFC2R8&utm_source=Listrak&utm_medium=Email&utm_term=Best+Edible+Flowers+for+Growing+and+Eating+(title)&utm_campaign=Companion+Daily

Hydrangea Care: Pruning Hydrangea Varieties

  Hydrangea Care: Pruning Hydrangea Varieties

Hydrangeas can sometimes be a tricky plant to care for, so it is important to learn how to prune and when to prune different hydrangea varieties. Properly pruning hydrangeas based on your hydrangea’s variety will allow you to have more blooms next year.
Before you start pruning hydrangeas, it’s important to figure out which variety you have. If you prune at the wrong time, you could be cutting off next year’s blooms.

Pruning Hydrangea Varieties

Bigleaf Hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla)
Even though my area is hardy to Zone 5, my ‘Endless Summer’ mophead hydrangea—which usually has huge blue blossoms all summer long—was killed to the ground. Luckily, it has the wonderful ability to bloom on both old and new wood, so even though they were a bit later than usual, there were still many blooms.
My other blue hydrangea is a lacecap-type, called ‘Let’s Dance Starlight’, but instead of the huge, mophead-type of flower cluster that ‘Endless Summer’ has, the lacecap hydrangea bears a flat blossom made up of many small, fertile flowers surrounded by a few showy, sterile flowers. It is also hardy to Zone 5 and blooms on both old and new wood.https://www.almanac.com/blog/gardening/garden-journal/hydrangea-care-pruning-hydrangea-varieties?trk_msg=BA30OTQH5DDKBAI9UNJREEME3O&trk_contact=EEBLFVJ2I0VAQT9EM5JFVJAK9O&trk_sid=AL500UOHM5LSELQMFVC9AUPHC0&utm_source=Listrak&utm_medium=Email&utm_term=Hydrangea+Care%3a+Pruning+Hydrangea+Varieties+(title)&utm_campaign=Companion+Daily

Vertical Planter Garden Perfect For Your Herbs

If you are looking for the perfect place to house herbs, you can’t go past this vertical planter and it’s easy when you know how ..

Here’s a great weekend Project. We love this Stepped Vertical Planter and it’s ideal for keeping your herbs on hand.

This light weight construction means you can move it around to catch the sun and rain and you can move them up or down the ladder. Check out the gorgeous Pallet version below too. Tutorial via ‘Ruffles and Truffles’http://thewhoot.com.au/whoot-news/diy/vertical-planter-garden?omhide=true

Jade Plant

How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Jade Plants

Jade plants are succulent house plants, which makes them fairly resilient and easy to grow indoors—plus, they’re long-lived! See how to care for your jade plant.
With its thick, woody stems and oval-shaped leaves, jade plants have a miniature tree-like appearance that is very appealing. They live a very long time, often reaching heights of three feet or more when grown indoors.
Though jade plants like the warm, dry conditions found in most homes, they are not as drought tolerant as other succulent species. It’s important to keep the soil moist (but never damp).

Planting

• Plant in a sturdy container with an all-purpose soil blend. Use a soil that will drain thoroughly, as excessive moisture may promote root rot.
• A cactus mix with some organic matter will do. You can also make a mix of one part sterilized organic soil, one part sphagnum peat moss, and three parts coarse sand by volume
• Jade plants are known to have very thick stems and may eventually become top-heavy, so plan ahead by planting in a wide and sturdy pot.

Care

• Place jade do need 4 or more hours of sunlight each day; kitchens and offices with a south-facing window are typically great spots with just enough light.
• Jade plants grow best at room temperature (65 to 75°F), but prefer slightly cooler temperatures at night and in the winter (55°F). 
• Keep soil moist but not wet during active growth in the spring and summer. Allow soil to dry between waterings in the winter. Avoid splashing water on the leaves while watering.
• If shedding or brown spots occur on the leaves, it is an indication that the plant needs more water. 
• Jade plants may be fertilized three to four times a year with a standard liquid houseplant fertilizer.
• During the winter months, move the plants away from cold windowpanes and out of drafts.
• Jade plants do not mind being root-bound. If the plant gets top-heavy and you need to move to a larger pot, transplant when new growth starts. Let the soil dry before repotting and wait four months before fertilizing any repotted plants.

Pests/Diseases

• Mealybugs may hide under stems and leaves. To remove the bugs, use a spray bottle of water or wipe the insects off gently with a bit of rubbing alcohol on a paper towel or cotton swab.
• Powdery mildew is a common problem.
• Root rot is due to excessive moisture in the soil.
• Leaf drop is a sign of a thirsty plant in need of more frequent watering.

Harvest/Storage

• New jade plants can easily be started from the leaves of mature plants. Stick leaves into the soil stem-side down and new roots will begin to grow.

Recommended Varieties

• ‘Hummel’s Sunset’ has beautiful yellow- and red-tipped leaves.
• ‘Tricolor’ has leaves variegated with white and cream.

Wit & Wisdom

• Grow the jade plant in a small pot and hold back the water. This may persuade it to flower. Cooler temperatures in the winter promote blooming, too.
• Jade plants are one of several plants with the nickname of “money plant” and are seen by some as a sign of good luck and prosperity.
• Due to their long lifespans and resiliency, jade plants make great gifts that can last a lifetime.http://www.almanac.com/plant/jade-plant?trk_msg=25LU0OT48KQ4NA2V02J5BLRO78&trk_contact=EEBLFVJ2I0VAQT9EM5JFVJAK9O&trk_sid=G165NLOCSU06MSGN2AH7C94KOO&utm_source=Listrak&utm_medium=Email&utm_term=Jade+Plant+(title)&utm_campaign=Companion+Daily

Watermelon, Feta & Mint Salad

Recipe | Watermelon, Feta & Mint Salad
Speaking of summer, and weddings, and watermelon love...
All three came together tastily when sweet niece, Charisa, was married at the farm. Paired with perfectly pulled pork sliders, prepared by Paul (see what I did there?!) this watermelon, feta cheese, and mint salad was sweet, salty, and refreshing! Liven up any summer meal with it!

Ingredients:

• 1 small seedless watermelon (about 5-6 cups), cut into 1" cubes or balled
• juice from 1 lime
• about 1.2 cup fresh mint, chopped
• 3/4 cup feta, broken into large chunks or cut into 1/2" cubes
• freshly ground black pepper

Directions:

1. Cut or ball watermelon into 1" bites size pieces
2. Break feta into chunks or cut into 1/2" cubes
3. In a large bowl, combine the watermelon and lime juice. Gently fold in the feta, sprinkle with mint, and season to taste with freshly ground black pepper
4. Serve up some Summer Yum!

Sweet Potato

Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Sweet Potatoes

The sweet potato is a warm-season, spreading vegetable of tropical origin. Here’s how to grow sweet potatoes in your garden!
Sweet potatoes are a good choice for a garden because they are easy to grow, drought- and heat-tolerant, and have few pests or diseases. The sweet potato is also very nutritious and low in calories. Read more about growing sweet potatoes.

Planting

• Sweet potatoes are grown from slips, which are sprouts that are grown from stored sweet potatoes. You can buy slips from garden centers, nurseries, or local farmers.
• You can also grow your own slips to plant in the spring. In November (this is when the best of the new harvest will be out), go to your supermarket and look for unblemished and uncracked medium-size sweet potatoes. One potato should yield about 12 plants.
• Store these potatoes in a well-lit room with a temperature between 65° and 70°F. Keep them there until about 90 days before the last spring frost date. They will then need to be embedded in soil for 90 days and kept continuously warm and moist.
• Use a 1-½ gallon pot for every two potatoes. Remember to poke drainage holes in the bottom of the pot and fill it with 3 inches of mulch, followed by garden or potting soil. Plant the potatoes in the pot at a 45° angle so that the sprouts will grow above the soil. When the slips are 6 to 12 inches tall, you can plant them outdoors, as long as all danger of frost has passed.
• After you have grown your own slips or bought them, till the area of the garden you will be using to a depth of 8 to 10 inches. Create raised mounds 6 to 8 inches tall and about 12 inches wide. Use fertile, well-drained soil.
• Plant the slips 12 to 18 inches apart in the bed, after the last spring frost date. Plant the slips deep enough to cover the roots and about ½ inch of the stem. Water the slips with a starter solution that is high in phosphorous, then water generously for a few days to make sure that the plants root well.
• Get more tips for growing sweet potatoes.

Care

• Side-dress the potatoes 3 to 4 weeks after transplanting with 3 pounds of 5-10-10 fertilizer per 100 feet of row. If you have sandy soil, use 5 pounds.
• Hoe the beds occasionally to keep weeds down. Remember to reshape the beds with soil or mulch.
• For good harvests, do not prune the vines, because they should be vigorous.
• Remember to keep the potatoes watered. Deep watering in hot, dry periods will help to increase yields, although if you are planning to store some of the potatoes, do not give the plants extra water late in the season.

Pests/Diseases

• Flea beetles
• Sweet potato scurf
• White blister
• Fungal leaf rot
• Stem rot

Harvest/Storage

• You can start digging up the potatoes as soon as they are big enough for a meal. Often, this is 3 to 4 months from when you planted the slips.
• Usually, sweet potatoes are ready to harvest when the leaves and ends of the vines have started turning to yellow, but you can leave them in the ground up until the fall frost.
• Since the roots spread 4 to 6 inches deep in the soil, a spade fork is useful when digging up the potatoes. Loosen the soil around the plant (18-inch diameter) so you do not injure the tubers. It’s fine to cut some of the vines away.
• Pull up the primary crown of the plant and use your hands to dig up the potatoes. Handle the potatoes carefully because they bruise easily. 
• After digging up the potatoes, shake off any excess dirt but no not wash the roots.
• You must cure sweet potatoes or they will not have that delicious, sweet taste. Curing the potatoes allows a second skin to form over scratches and bruises that occur when digging up the potatoes. To cure, keep the roots in a warm place (about 80°F) at high humidity (about 90%) for 10 to 14 days. A table outside in a shady spot works well. For best curing, make sure that the potatoes are not touching one another.
• After curing, throw out any bruised potatoes, and then wrap each one in newspaper and pack them carefully in a wooden box or basket. Store the sweet potatoes in a root cellar, basement, or other place with a temperature of at least 55°F.  
• If stored at a temperature range of 55° to 60°F with high humidity, the tubers should last for about 6 months. When removing the potatoes from storage, remember to be gentle; do not dig around or else you will bruise the potatoes.

Recommended Varieties

• ‘Centennial’, which is one of the most popular types of sweet potato. It is carrot-colored and has a good storage life. It is also a good producer for northern growers.
• ‘Jewel’, which is copper-color and has good disease resistance. It also has a good storage life.
• ‘Bunch Porto Rico’, which is a good choice for gardens with limited space. It is copper-color and very flavorful.
• ‘Stokes’ purple sweet potatoes offer a vibrant purple color and are full of extra health benefits.

Wit & Wisdom

Sweet potatoes will retain their color if cooked with a slice of lemon.
Sweet potatoes are a very healthy vegetable, and they provide many benefits. Learn more about why you should eat sweet potatoes.

Recipes

• Pecan-Crusted Sweet Potato Casserole
• Sweet Potato Pie
• Maple Candied Sweet Potatoes

Cooking Notes

Check out our ten best sweet potato recipes!
To the cook, sweet potatoes are easier than pie (or sweet potato pie!).

• They can simply be scrubbed, poked with a fork in a few places, and baked at 400°F for 35 minutes to one hour, until they give a bit when you squeeze them in your pot-holder-protected hand.
• In the microwave, a whole sweet potato baked on high should be ready in 4 to 6 minutes. It may still feel firm when done; let it stand 5 minutes to soften.
• Sweet potatoes can also be steamed whole (cleaned and unpeeled) for about 40 minutes or until tender, or cooked whole (cleaned and unpeeled) in boiling salted water for about 35 minutes. (Boiling reduces the flavor considerably.)
• Immerse cut raw sweet potatoes in water until you’re ready to cook them; they will darken otherwise.

As a general rule, don’t substitute sweet potatoes for regular potatoes in recipes; the two aren’t related. Sweet potatoes don’t hold together the way potatoes do, and their strong flavor can overwhelm a dish meant for a milder potato taste. Sweet potatoes are also not related to yams. But they make a fine substitute for pumpkin, especially in desserts.http://www.almanac.com/plant/sweet-potato?trk_msg=NDJE4NM56LKK3E0999U5VG7CGK&trk_contact=EEBLFVJ2I0VAQT9EM5JFVJAK9O&trk_sid=A9N7SE1M0CAD6LFCF0CRAM882G&utm_source=Listrak&utm_medium=Email&utm_term=Sweet+Potato+(title)&utm_campaign=Companion+Daily

Oregano

Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Oregano Plants

 

Oregano is a perennial herb with rose-purple or white flowers and a taste reminiscent of thyme. Here’s how to grow oregano plants in your garden—plus, delicious recipes using oregano.
Oregano’s taste is zesty and strong and is commonly used in Italian dishes. It is a hardy plant and makes for a good ground cover.

Planting

• Oregano loves the sun, so ensure that your placement has full, strong sun for strong flavor. Some folks plant later in the season for assured warm weather.
• However, for a head start, plant the seeds/cuttings 6 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost. (See local frost dates.)
• Oregano can easily be started from seeds, though you can also use cuttings from an established plant.
• Plant the seeds/cuttings in well-drained soil anytime after the last spring frost. The soil should be around 70ºF.
• For thin plants, plant 8 to 10 inches apart. The plants will grow 1 to 2 feet tall and spread about 18 inches.
• Oregano makes a good companion plant for any vegetable in the garden.

Care

• Allow oregano plants to grow to about 4 inches tall and then pinch or trim lightly to encourage a denser and bushier plant.
• Regular trimming will not only cause the plant to branch again, but also avoid legginess.
• Oregano doesn’t need quite as much water as most herbs. As the amount of watering depends on many variables, just water when the soil feels dry to the touch. Remember that it’s better to water thoroughly and less often.
• If you have a container, water until the water comes out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the container.
• To ensure the best-quality plants, thin out plants that are 3 or 4 years old in the early spring. Oregano is self-seeding, so the plants will easily grow back.
• You can divide the plants in late spring if you want to put one indoors.

Pests/Diseases

• Root and stem rots
• Aphids
• Spider mites

Harvest/Storage

• Harvest the leaves as you need them. The most flavor-filled leaves are found right before the flowers bloom.
• You can freeze the leaves to use during the winter. Oregano leaves store well and are easily dried. Keep them in an airtight container once dried.

Recommended Varieties

• Greek oregano (Origanum vulgare var. hirtum) for cooking.
• Common oregano for decoration (its lavender flowers look pretty in the garden and are also used in wreaths).

Wit & Wisdom

• Oregano tea relaxes nerves and settles an upset stomach.
• Oregano was once used in many old-fashioned herbal remedies.
• For other greens to use in your cuisine, see the Leafy Greens: Health Benefits page.
• Oregano plants are said to symbolize “substance.” Find out more about plant meanings here.

Recipes

• Tomato Herb Bread
• Farmers' Market Grilled-Veggie Platter
• Slow-Cooker Tomato Sauce
• Lentil, Rice, and Feta Salad
• Shrimp in Tomato Sauce with Feta Cheese
• Herbed Popovers
• Turkey-Stuffed Eggplant

Cooking Notes

Oregano is an extremely useful herb that appears in countless remedies and tastes a bit like thyme. It is great to have in the kitchen, especially when fresh from the garden! Learn about more flavorful kitchen herbs here.http://www.almanac.com/plant/oregano?trk_msg=QVQAJP03O5IKBBR7IRLURG3C08&trk_contact=EEBLFVJ2I0VAQT9EM5JFVJAK9O&trk_sid=MREMTDQQP51PJN20DGTCPSMSRO&utm_source=Listrak&utm_medium=Email&utm_term=Oregano+(title)&utm_campaign=Companion+Daily

10 Smart Watering Tips for a Healthy Garden How to Water

10 Smart Watering Tips for a Healthy Garden

How to Water, When to WaterWatering at the right time, in the right place, and using the right methods can make a big difference to how much water your garden needs. In this short video we share 10 tried-and-tested tips for saving water in the garden.

10 Smart Watering Tips for the Garden

1. Water Only When You Need To
If you’re not sure you need to water, check for soil moisture by digging a small hole with a trowel, or with your finger. If the soil us cool and damp below the surface, leave watering for another time.
2. Time Your Watering
Watering early in the morning gives crops enough time to take up the moisture before it evaporates in the heat of the afternoon. Water-splashed foliage will also have time to dry before nightfall, minimizing problems with slugs and fungal diseases.
3. Take Careful Aim
Direct the flow of water at the base of plants where it’s needed, and avoid splashing the leaves. Watering heavily . A lot occasionally is better than little and often, and will help develop a better root system.
4. Trap Water
Sink plastic pots up to the rim next to thirsty plants such as squash, then water into the pot. The water will be delivered directly to the root zone instead of running off the surface. You can also use an upturned bottle with the cap removed and the bottom cut off instead of a pot.
5. Irrigate Efficiently
Automatic drip irrigation or leaky hoses are less wasteful than using sprinklers. Put your setup on a timer and override it when rain is due. Keep an eye on the weather forecast!
6. Pick Pots with Care
Clay pots wick moisture out of the potting soil and metal pots heat up very quickly, which accelerates moisture loss. Grow in plastic or glazed pots instead. You can hide ugly pots within a more decorative metal or terra cotta outer pot if necessary. 
Cluster pots together to cast shade and slow evaporation further.
7. Add Organic Matter
Soils that are rich in organic matter absorb and retain moisture better, so add well-rotted compost or manure to beds whenever you get the chance.
8. Lay Mulch Regularly
Mulches slow down evaporation. Landscape fabrics will work, or use pebbles and stones on pots. T. The best mulches however are compost and other organic matter, which will also help to feed the plants as they grow. Lay mulches at least two inches thick onto moist soil, and keep them topped up throughout summer.
9. Harvest Rainwater
Locate water butts or tanks close to where you’ll most need the water. Collect water off your house roof, shed and greenhouse into water barrels. Multiple water butts barrels can be linked together to maximize your rainwater storage. Check local laws on rainwater harvesting first.
10. Keep Your Beds Weeded
Hoe off annual weeds and dig out perennials weeds to prevent them competing with your veggies for the available soil moisture.
http://www.almanac.com/video/10-smart-watering-tips-healthy-garden?trk_msg=G9NHLDO22674B92K5ICTQI5OSG&trk_contact=EEBLFVJ2I0VAQT9EM5JFVJAK9O&trk_sid=SRALC8II0FK90NA341G1A1R9OC&utm_source=Listrak&utm_medium=Email&utm_term=10+Smart+Watering+Tips+for+a+Healthy+Garden+(title)&utm_campaign=Companion+Daily

Black-eyed Susans

How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Black-eyed Susans

Black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta) are native to North America and one of the most popular wildflowers grown. They tend to blanket open fields, often surprising the passerby with their golden-yellow beauty.
Members of the sunflower family, the “black eye” is named for the dark, brown-purple centers of its daisy-like flower heads. The plants can grow to over 3 feet tall, with leaves of 6 inches, stalks over 8 inches long and flower diameter of 2 to 3 inches.
Butterflies, bees, and a variety of insects are attracted to the flowers for the nectar. As they drink the nectar, they move pollen from one plant to another, causing it to grow fruits and seeds that can move about easily with the wind.
These plants bloom from June to October. Note that they can be territorial in that they tend to squash out other flowers growing near them.
Black-eyed Susans are good for cut flowers; they also work well for borders or in containers.

Planting

• Plant black-eyed Susans when the soil temperature has reached 70°F for best seed germination. In many parts of North America, the planting period is March to May. The flower will flower June to September. Germination takes 7 to 30 days.
• Plant seeds in moist, well-drained soil.
• These hearty flowers really enjoy the Sun. They prefer full sun, though they’ll grow in partial sun.
• Sow by seed in loosely covered soil.
• It’s best if soil is fertile (not poor) though they can tolerate tough conditions.
• Black-eyed Susans generally grow between 1 and 3 feet tall (though they can grow taller) and can spread between 12 to 18 inches, so plant seeds closer to prevent lots of spreading or plant further apart to make a nice border.

Care

• Check your plants regularly to see if they need watering. Make sure they don’t dry out.
• Divide perennial types every 3 to 4 years to ensure healthy plants and to prevent excessive spreading.
• Be sure to remove faded/dead flowers to prolong blooming.
• You can cut back black-eyed Susans after they flower and a second, smaller bloom may occur in late fall.

Pests/Diseases

• These plants are susceptible to powdery mildew fungi, so begin an organic antifungal program if the lower leaves turn brown and twisted.
• Slugs and snails
• Aphids
• Powdery mildew
• Rust
• Smut
• Leaf spots
• Luckily, black-eyed Susans are deer-resistant plants.

Harvest/Storage

After the first season, black-eyed Susans can reseed themselves!

Recommended Varieties

• ‘Becky Mixed’, which offers a variety of colors for your garden, such as lemon-yellow, golden-yellow, dark red, and reddish-brown.
• ‘Sonora’, which has bright yellow flowers.
• ‘Toto’, which is a dwarf type and ideal for containers.                                                  http://www.almanac.com/plant/black-eyed-susans?trk_msg=64B0G3DAI2CK7E646A2GO5R734&trk_contact=EEBLFVJ2I0VAQT9EM5JFVJAK9O&trk_sid=QMQF923710IBD5VQHHU1A8G4CO&utm_source=Listrak&utm_medium=Email&utm_term=Black-eyed+Susans+(title)&utm_campaign=Companion+Daily

Cinder Block Bench Seat Video Instructions

We love all the different uses for Cinder Blocks and this Cinder Block Bench Seat is pure genius. It is so easy, you will love it!

http://thewhoot.com.au/whoot-news/diy/besser-block-bench 

Cinder Block Raised Garden Bed Is Easy DIY

If you’d like to grow your own herbs and veggies, we’ve found the answer to your prayers! This Raised Besser Block Bed is ideal ..

Do you have limited space in the garden? This Besser (Cinder) Block Raised Garden Bed is the perfect solution. It’s a great spot to grow herbs and vegetables or add a splash of color to your backyard and you can even paint them up!

This is such a simple idea, you won’t believe you haven’t thought of it sooner! Be sure to scroll our page for all the different versions. We have also included a video tutorial for you to follow along with.

Cinder Block Raised Garden via I Save A-Z

Cinder Block Raised Veggie Bed Video

We have included a video tutorial that steps you through the process. You need to ensure that your bed is on a flat and cleared area so that it can settle into the soil. Take into consideration your plantings and the amount of sun or shade required when selecting your location. To view the video, click Play below ⇓
Be sure to use a decent soil for your garden bed and you can also use some Pea Straw if you like. You can also use the edges to add complementary plantings. It’s important that you plant your veggies in a fashion that they will thrive, not just survive.
We recommend that you check out our Companion Planting Charts for all the best ideas. You will be thrilled with the way your veggies grow as a result.

• Check out the Companion Planting Chart Here

Raised Garden Bed via I Save A-Z

Raised Besser Block Garden Bed via Vintage Kids Modern World

Raised Besser Block Garden via Savvy Gardening

Check out how to make a —> Besser Block Planter